Braking - Slowing the car down. What's your style?
#1
Posted 14 January 2009 - 02:25 PM
Been watching our MSR aliens at work.
Seems so easy for them to slow the car down before entering a corner.
Also...they brake so late and still the car was stabil...no screeching tyres (like me :lol: )
How do you guys brake actually?
Let say from 6th/7th gear and down to 2nd/1st gear?
Lift throttle...flat on the brakes? :unsure:
#2
Posted 14 January 2009 - 03:16 PM
Räikkönen, on Jan 14 2009, 02:25 PM, said:
Been watching our MSR aliens at work.
Seems so easy for them to slow the car down before entering a corner.
Also...they brake so late and still the car was stabil...no screeching tyres (like me :lol: )
How do you guys brake actually?
Let say from 6th/7th gear and down to 2nd/1st gear?
Lift throttle...flat on the brakes? :unsure:
Hmm, it's quite difficult to say in words really. But I'll try my best. Different person has different braking techniques. But one has to understand the objective of braking first. Braking is to minimize speed as slow as possible without breaking the traction available (upsetting the car balance by sending the car into huge shock that the chassis unable to take it anymore).
In order to brake properly, it's not just about slamming the brake and drop down the gear. You will ended up in spins or slides all the time. A real life technique has to be applied. When you brake while shifting the gear it's done very quickly but gradually. We slammed the brake yes, we drop gear as fast as lightning yes. But having said that, we actually gradually increase the pressure and release it based on the traction that we feel available. When you start skidding you have to stop the braking. There is no other way if you want to make the turns and stabilised the car. As for dropping gear, we try to match the highest rev possible for a given gear in order to maximize gear braking. Because when you go over the redline, the rear wheel stops spinning and again you break the traction sending you into slides or worse still, concrete barrier.
There is actually more to it, you need to train the muscles so that when the tyre sounds like almost screeching you have already lift off the brake a bit. The modulation is the muscle memory.
Hope that helps.
This post has been edited by PCcrazy: 14 January 2009 - 03:17 PM
#3
Posted 14 January 2009 - 04:10 PM
Quote
Progressive braking technique
The progressive braking technique achieves the best possible braking results for the space the driver has given him or her self to stop. Whether you have much room for slowing or stopping- or have only the minimum space to stop -you should brake progressively.
In braking progressively, you move through several stages of braking. This will occur regardless of the speed you are travelling or the space you have allowed yourself to stop in. You apply brake pressure in a way that best suits the stage of braking the vehicle is at.
The two figures below represent the pressure applied by a driver braking progressively over the same stopping distance from two different speeds. In both cases, the driver moves through the same stages.
This post has been edited by PCcrazy: 14 January 2009 - 04:18 PM
#4
Posted 14 January 2009 - 04:14 PM
Quote
Get to know the limits of the surface you're
driving on before trying to brake hard.
The best braking technique is to gradually, but quickly build up braking pressure. If you would simply slam on the brakes, the weight transfer will be too sudden for the front springs to cope with, locking-up the front tires.
You should allow the springs some time to deal with the energy that it is being submitted to when the nose dives forward under braking. The weight should settle and stabilize itself on the front tires. If the springs compress too fast, too much force will be transferred to the front, locking-up your front tires.
This post has been edited by PCcrazy: 14 January 2009 - 04:14 PM
#5
Posted 14 January 2009 - 11:45 PM
1) High speed: I slam the brakes and drop gear like crazy until I reach 3rd or 4th gear (I think). this phase only exists if I am at 5th or more gear. The idea is that at (very) high speed the tires don't lock anyway so I brake as much as possible until I am at medium to low speed.
2) Medium to low speed. I kind of "pump" on the break to optimize the braking according to the grip available as PC explained. I generally release a little the brakes (pump up) at the moment I drop a gear since if you keep the pressure the same at this moment the rear tires will lock up. Then I apply more break (pump down) until I drop another gear. It is particularly true at low speed. At medium speed, it depends if you are braking straight or slightly turning, if you brake too early or too late.
As PC said, this phase requires training to have a good feel as when to apply more or less break according to the track conditions and the car.
This technique as also the advantage to reduce the heat of the discs when your release slightly the brakes, which in return allows the brakes to keep their maximum efficiency by not overheating.
#6
Posted 15 January 2009 - 12:44 AM
1. First u got to know where to brake (ur barking point).
2. Then ur approach speed to that braking point must be the highest u can achieve without braking and screeching tyres.
3. Try braking in straight line first of slightly with steering input. If the car too straight while braking, adjust the brake bias to the back. If the car tends to turn in too fast, add bias to the front.
4. If bias is ok and still unstable, increase coast differential.
5. If still nervous, check ur steering lock. If its too high, it can unsettle the car when u do some corrections entering the cornering phase.
The way u judge a successful braking is how fast u can get out of that corner. Personally i treat all corners as hot zone.. I dont wanna stay there too long hehhe. I think its true coz during cornering, everything receives less cooling so its hot. heheh
And prefect practice makes perfect.
#7
Posted 21 January 2009 - 12:56 AM
Quote
You might think "why would anyone want their brake bias towards the rear if it simply causes problems such as this?", well that's because a rear brake bias can really help corner turn-in as the car is automatically trying to oversteer, and in the early stages of this 'oversteer under braking' it will normally point the nose of the car in the direction you want to turn. So it can be a useful bonus if you can perfect the technique - you haven't even turned the wheel and the car is already starting to turn into the corner.
Ive been doing this all the time, but I didn't know how to explain when linkin ask me why I like my brake more towards the rear. I guess this article explain it in superbly.
Eric Alexander, thanks eric.
#8
Posted 21 January 2009 - 01:27 AM
PCcrazy, on Jan 21 2009, 12:56 AM, said:
Eric Alexander, thanks eric.
Ah yes.....low brake pressure, rear brake bias....only if i have finer resolution steering wheel such as the g25. If u view a high fidelity replay of PCcrazy's driving, u can see exactly what he is describing in action.
I still put front brake bias more to the front. :lol:
#9
Posted 21 January 2009 - 09:13 AM
maranello55, on Jan 21 2009, 01:27 AM, said:
I still put front brake bias more to the front. :lol:
#10
Posted 22 January 2009 - 11:34 AM
It's a technique that is very important to control the balance of the car more than anything else to me.
#11
Posted 22 January 2009 - 12:59 PM
#14
Posted 23 January 2009 - 08:50 AM
PCcrazy, on Jan 21 2009, 12:56 AM, said:
Eric Alexander, thanks eric.
Now that is skill.
I never tried that...will try and see what happens :lol:


















